Cultivation

CULTIVATION TIPS
Nepenthes can have a reputation of being a difficult plant to grow. In most cases, however, this is a reputation that is not warranted. If the proper conditions are supplied, Nepenthes will not only survive, but thrive. Obviously, the trick is to provide an environment similar to the conditions the plants grow in habitat. When one takes into consideration the fact that Nepenthes grow in habitats ranging from lowland swamps, exposed rock faces, vertical cliffs, moss-covered mountain summits, rainforest floors, treetops as epiphytes and within mangrove swamps, this task may seem daunting. However, there are some basic principles that can be applied to most of the 90 odd representatives of the genus.
Basic requirements of the plants can be divided into the following;

* Temperature
* Light
* Humidity
* Water
* Soil
* Pots
* Fertilisation

TEMPERATURE
Nepenthes can be roughly divided into 3 groups. Lowland species, which grow at an elevation from sea level to about 500m ASL, lower montane species, growing between 500m and 1000m ASL and highland species, which grow from 1000 to nearly 3000 m ASL. Of course, there are several representative species that cross these divisions, and the growing conditions best suited for the plant in cultivation will be dependant on the location of the wild population from which it was derived.

LOWLAND SPECIES
Plants that have originated from lowland conditions require high temperatures, as would be found in a tropical climate. Daytime temperatures of 30 C, with nighttime temperatures dropping no lower than 20 C are ideal for these plants. Depending on the species, they will tolerate temperatures outside of these parameters for limited periods if humidity levels are maintained. If you live in a tropical or sub-tropical climate, it is possible to cultivate lowland Nepenthes without any special requirements such as heating or greenhouses.

LOWER MONTANE SPECIES
Also known as intermediate plants, these will tolerate somewhat warmer temperatures than highlanders, but still appreciate it a little cooler than true lowlanders.

HIGHLAND SPECIES
All Nepenthes are tropical plants, their habitat restricted to areas of high rainfall and humidity. It therefore comes as a surprise to some that there are species that require cooler temperatures to survive. These are the highland species, and are found on the higher slopes of equatorial mountains, where moss forest can be found. Weather conditions on these mountain summits can be extreme, with exposure to high winds and extremes in temperature fluctuation. Depending on altitude, plants can be exposed to temperatures of around 25 C during the day to near freezing at night. In cultivation, daytime temperatures can be higher if night-time temperatures drop to the vicinity of at least 15 C. Obviously, the higher the altitude a plant is located, the lower the temperature.

These plants are ideally suited to people who live in temperate climates. However, it should be noted that very few species will tolerate temperatures dropping below freezing, or frost.

HYBRIDS
Nepenthes plants hybridise readily across the genus. This has led to the development of many interesting and beautiful plants. Hybrids can generally provide a more tolerant and hardy alternative to species, as not only do they have the genetic characteristics of both parents, but also display “hybrid vigour”, which is a term used to describe the increased growth characteristics and environmental toughness displayed by a lot of these plants.

HUMIDITY
On the whole, it is our experience that if humidity levels are maintained, most plants will tolerate a wider temperature range. Plants in habitat have been seen growing where temperatures would have been at least 40 C. If you live in a climate of low humidity, some artificial means of supplying this requirement for the plant will be beneficial. This may be something as simple as a regular misting, to housing your plants in a greenhouse (or on a small scale, in a terrarium).

LIGHT

As a rule, most Nepenthes do best with about a 12-hour photoperiod. If this decreases, plant growth and pitcher production may be affected. We have found that a 10-hour photoperiod has little effect on the wellbeing of the plant.

The majority of nepenthes enjoy exposure to partial sunlight, and some can be hardened to full sun exposure. In cultivation, this can be achieved by either growing the plants in an outdoor position where they are partially exposed to sunlight, such as in a courtyard or veranda, or alternatively, underneath a shade cloth or other greenhouse material. We have found that if a material cover is used, it is best to use 50% shade cover.

Of course, there are exceptions to the rule in every instance. Species such as N. sumatrana, N. longifolia and N. adnata prefer much more shade, being found in thicker vegetation. N. bicalcarata and N. ampullaria also prefer a bit more shade than other species.

WATER
Carnivorous plants have a reputation of being sensitive to chemicals present in water. Luckily, Nepenthes are not as fickle as other genus of carnivores. They will tolerate higher levels of chemicals with little effect, within reason of course! Most tap water is suitable for watering, but if pure water is available, all the better.

The amount of water given to your plants will depend on humidity levels and media used. Ideally, the soil should remain moist, but not waterlogged. If you are using an overhead misting system, this will help maintain humidity, but make sure enough water is making its way into the pot to wet the soil sufficiently.

Generally, Nepenthes do not like having waterlogged soil. This can lead to root rot, and once this starts, the plant is in trouble. Some growers recommend growing plants like N bicalcarata and N. ampullaria in very wet soil. We grow these plants in exactly the same water conditions to other species, with no ill effects to the plants.

With large pots or hanging baskets, it may be advisable to use the tray method to ensure that the soil remains moist. If this method is used, the plant will do well if the water is allowed to evaporate completely from the tray until more is added. This will help stop the soil becoming waterlogged.

In summary, ensure soil conditions are moist, not waterlogged. This is achieved by a combination of exposure to water, and the type of soil used.

SOIL
There are many soil mixes recommended to use as media for growing nepenthes. To be successful, there should be a balance between holding moisture, and allowing aeration of the soil. We basically use 2 soil types for all species we grow.
Firstly, if you have good water quality, the best thing to grow nepenthes in is live sphagnum moss. The live moss provides a healthy, relatively pathogen-free, light and aerated media that Nepenthes love. Epiphytes and highland species thrive in Sphagnum moss.

Our other media is a mixture of pearlite, vermiculite, fine grade pine bark (Boiled) and peat moss. We find that most lowland species will grow well in this mix.

Whatever soil you choose, remember that the important thing is that the roots have aerated soil. Some species are more tolerant than others of waterlogged soil, but all will grow in a good mix.

POTS
We have found the choice of pots to be relatively unimportant in lowland plants. We use both plastic and terracotta pots, as well as wire baskets lined with osmunda fibre. All work well, so long as the basic principles pertaining to water and soil types are followed. The only drawback with terracotta pots is that moss and fungus grow readily on the sides, making them not very aesthetically pleasing.

For highland plants, it may be a consideration to use terracotta if temperature is likely to be a problem. The cooling effect of evaporation from the clay may cool the soil by several degrees.

If you have a large plant that requires a bigger pot, a knowledgeable friend recommends placing a smaller pot upside down in to the base of the pot and adding the soil around it. This stops the soil getting too waterlogged, and also provides a humid little pocket for roots to grow into.

FERTILISATION
This is a hotly contested topic in relation to carnivorous plants. Basically, the argument stems from the fact that the plants can catch their own nutrients. Our plants are in greenhouses which have their own little ecosystems, and they do catch quite a lot of prey. Mostly, this consists of ants, flies, spiders and cockroaches. But the N. rowanae are constantly trapping small lizards, and we have found a mouse in an N. truncata pitcher. Having said this, we still find it beneficial to fertilize our plants.

Some conditions may not lend themselves to being so rich in insect and animal life to supplement the plants growth from natural sources. So this leaves the grower with two options.

Firstly, they can add insects such as crickets to the pitchers by hand. This is good practice, but don’t over fill the pitcher with prey, or put in something too big, as this will foul the fluid, and if it doesn’t prematurely kill the pitcher, it certainly won’t smell too good. Don’t spray flies and put them into the pitchers, for obvious reasons. And don’t be tempted to drop pieces of mince, or steak or sausages and the like into the pitcher either. Restrict your supplementing to tasty little insects, and your plant will appreciate your efforts.

Secondly, a fertiliser can be used. The trick is not to use too much. If too much is applied, the plant will stop pitchering, as there is no need to supplement it’s nutrient requirements. This leaves you with a rather unimpressive vine, and the memory of what your plant looked like once upon a time. If this does happen, stop your fertilization program until the pitchers return.
We have found that a weak epiphytic fertiliser, such as Aquasol, applied quarter strength, on a monthly basis, is sufficient to promote plant and pitcher growth.

IN SUMMARY
In a nutshell, find out the temperature that best suits your plant, and make sure you can provide something similar. Ensure your soil medium is moist, but not waterlogged, and is fairly light and aerated. Ensure your plant gets enough sunlight, without roasting it. Remember that hybrid plants are often more hardy than both parents (hybrid vigour) and can be more tolerant of extremes in heat, humidity, light and water.

Most importantly, as with a lot of things, don’t be afraid of trying different approaches. Gather as much information as you can, and find out what works best for you. Our growing conditions differ from someone 5 minutes down the road, and what works for them, might not work for us. So use these growing tips and basic principles as a guide, and piece together what suits you and how you intend growing your plants.

Nepenthes can be very easy and rewarding plants to grow, and with a little help, can be grown successfully in a wide range of climates.